A village on a green headland from the air, with surf breaking along both sides.

Destinations

Seven regions, seven seasons

Where you go depends on the month, not the mood.

  • 7 regions
  • 8 World Heritage Sites
  • 65,610 km²
The circular stone Vatadage at Polonnaruwa, its terraces and guardstones intact.

Dry zone, 3 to 4 hours north of Colombo

The Cultural Triangle

Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya, with Dambulla and Mihintale inside the same two hour radius. Four World Heritage Sites and about fifteen centuries of continuous capital between them.

Best months February to September

Sigiriya
Fifth century, roughly 200 metres of rock, about 1,200 steps
Anuradhapura
Capital from 377 BCE. Still an active pilgrimage site
Polonnaruwa
Twelfth century, compact, best crossed by bicycle
Dambulla
Five caves, about 150 Buddha images, painted ceilings
Tea terraces covering rolling hills in the central highlands, mountains behind.

Centre of the island, 500 to 2,000 metres

Kandy and the hill country

Kandy was the last independent kingdom on the island and fell only in 1815. Above it the tea country runs to two thousand metres, cold at night, and is crossed by the railway the British built to bring the crop down.

Best months January to March, and December

Kandy to Ella by rail
About 6 h 45 through, or in two easier legs
Nuwara Eliya
1,868 metres. Frost is possible in January
Horton Plains
World’s End is an 870 metre drop, clear only before 9 a.m.
Tea since
1867, at Loolecondera near Kandy
Stilt fishermen on their poles off Koggala, silhouetted against an orange sunset.

Galle to Tangalle, 2 to 3 hours from Colombo

The south coast

A hundred and fifty kilometres of beach, reef and river mouth, with a lived-in seventeenth century Dutch fort at the western end of it and blue whales offshore for half the year.

Best months December to March

Galle Fort
Dutch grid, Portuguese walls, occupied since 1663
Whales off Mirissa
November to April, blue and sperm
Turtles at Rekawa
Green turtles come ashore year round, most in April to July
Colombo to Galle
125 km on the expressway, about 2 hours
A leopard drinking at a waterhole in Yala National Park.

Southeast and northwest, 4 to 5 hours from Colombo

Yala and the dry-zone parks

Yala has one of the highest recorded leopard densities in the world, Wilpattu is twice the size and a fraction as busy, and Minneriya fills with elephants as the reservoir drops in the dry months.

Best months February to July

Yala
Busiest at the Palatupana gate. Block 1 is the crowded one
Wilpattu
Largest park in the country. Sand-rimmed lakes, few vehicles
Minneriya and Kaudulla
The dry-season gathering, roughly July to September
Bundala
A Ramsar wetland, and the better park for birds
A Ceylon blue magpie, blue and chestnut, on a mossy branch.

Southwest interior, 4 hours from Colombo

Sinharaja and the wet zone

The last significant stand of primary lowland rainforest on the island, a World Heritage Site, and the place to find the birds that exist nowhere else. It rains most months, which is what a rainforest is.

Best months January to March, and August

Status
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988
Endemic birds
More than twenty of the island endemics are found here
Access
On foot, with a park guide. No vehicles inside
Bring
Leech socks. Not optional between May and September
Colombo from above, high-rise towers over the red-tiled roofs of the older city with the sea beyond.

West coast, 35 km from the airport

Colombo

Skipped by most itineraries and worth two nights. Pettah market, a Dutch hospital turned into a colonnade of restaurants, Sea Street, and the best food on the island by a distance.

Best months Any month. It is hot and humid throughout

Pettah
Go at seven. By ten it is very hot and very full
Galle Face Green
Kite flying and isso wade from five in the afternoon
Getting around
Metered tuk-tuk or a ride app. Insist on the meter
Airport transfer
About 45 minutes on the E03 expressway
A coconut palm leaning out over turquoise water on a Trincomalee beach.

Trincomalee, Batticaloa, Arugam Bay, Jaffna

The east and the north

The half of the island that is good exactly when the south is not. Trincomalee has one of the finest natural harbours in the world, Arugam Bay has the best surf, and Jaffna is a different culture, a different cuisine and a different landscape.

Best months May to September

Why it matters
The monsoons are opposite. This coast is dry May to September
Arugam Bay
Surf season roughly May to October
Jaffna
About 400 km from Colombo. The train takes 6 to 7 hours
Trincomalee
Whales offshore in the same months as the surf

Not sure which of these fits your dates

Send us the weeks you can travel and we will tell you which coast is on the right side of the monsoon, and build the trip around that rather than around a wish list.

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